Z-2
Shave Master
Posts: 136
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Post by Z-2 on Oct 6, 2017 10:45:48 GMT -6
Hi folks, need some help. I use this razor from relative soon time, but I have trouble with angle on my neck. Maybe because the difference between shave angle of SE razor and other razors, I need to improve my technique? I hate to see my neck irritated and with bloody spots after shaving. Also, the shave quality is not that good, as I want (have stubbles here and there). The strange is that I haven`t this problem with unmentioned razors. Do you have any old instructions for this razor? I watched Fuzzy`s videos on youtube, but still is hard to view the right angle on neck and around jaw line This "flat to your face" isn`t work, just the razor do not cut. My blades are GEM PTFE stanless, if this is important. Thanks in advance !
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Post by twhite on Oct 7, 2017 0:57:30 GMT -6
Hello.
If your face is getting a good shave. Then it is your technique. Sometimes when dealing with awkward angles one tends to apply a bit to much pressure.
If on the other hand, you are having problems with your face too. You could try a cabin blade. Just remember. No pressure. That cures a lot of problems.
Tom
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Post by wchnu on Oct 7, 2017 3:03:35 GMT -6
Hi folks, need some help. I use this razor from relative soon time, but I have trouble with angle on my neck. Maybe because the difference between shave angle of SE razor and other razors, I need to improve my technique? I hate to see my neck irritated and with bloody spots after shaving. Also, the shave quality is not that good, as I want (have stubbles here and there). The strange is that I haven`t this problem with unmentioned razors. Do you have any old instructions for this razor? I watched Fuzzy`s videos on youtube, but still is hard to view the right angle on neck and around jaw line This "flat to your face" isn`t work, just the razor do not cut. My blades are GEM PTFE stanless, if this is important. Thanks in advance ! Over in the shave school section there are pictures of instructions for several razors. Gem recommended that you shave with the head flat on your face. This works for me. Use a light touch. Your blades are in the mail by the way. 2 five packs of treet blades.
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Z-2
Shave Master
Posts: 136
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Post by Z-2 on Oct 7, 2017 5:39:55 GMT -6
Thank you ! I believe they are carbon, yes?
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ShadowsDad
Gem Star
None boring shaver!!
"It's not the bow, it's the Indian"
Posts: 4,534
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Post by ShadowsDad on Oct 7, 2017 7:52:30 GMT -6
If you're presently using SS blades I find that they are far too sharp for the first few shaves. I put a fresh blade into a much less aggressive razor for at least3 shaves, and more is better. After "aging" the blade in that razor for a time they are much better and can go into the OCMM or any other razor for that matter.
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Z-2
Shave Master
Posts: 136
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Post by Z-2 on Oct 7, 2017 8:33:59 GMT -6
If you're presently using SS blades I find that they are far too sharp for the first few shaves. I put a fresh blade into a much less aggressive razor for at least3 shaves, and more is better. After "aging" the blade in that razor for a time they are much better and can go into the OCMM or any other razor for that matter. I have one british made GEM 1912, but I am not sure if this is less aggressive razor. Blade gap looks even bigger
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Post by Petrvs on Oct 7, 2017 9:01:58 GMT -6
Don't let your eyes deceive you, the 1912 is DEFINITELY less aggressive than the MMOC, though for the purpose of "breaking in" a new gem ss blade, I find that the Gem Featherweight is the perfect razor.
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Post by wchnu on Oct 7, 2017 9:34:35 GMT -6
Thank you ! I believe they are carbon, yes? Yes carbon blades.
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Z-2
Shave Master
Posts: 136
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Post by Z-2 on Oct 8, 2017 5:05:37 GMT -6
Today I used my MMOC again, because I believe, that our grandfathers haven`t a lot of razors in their shave dens, so, every razor on the marker should work well. I am lack of many "mild" razors, simply I can`t find them in Eastern Europe. We have not antique shops or flea markets as in USA, guys. So I followed the instruction with the head flat on my face. Better from previews 2 times, but still : 1. I need to change the angle a little to get closer shave. Maybe about 5-10 degrees. 2. My stubble is very thick, so, only the razor`s weight do not work. I know, no pressure, but if I do this, I simply will look "semi-shaved" after all Pressure make my skin irritated, but not so much. 3. Got 2 little bloody spots on my neck, which is definitely improvement, but as I sad, need to push the razor, to remove those whiskers. I hear, some people hand strop their blades before shaving. Is it necessary?
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ShadowsDad
Gem Star
None boring shaver!!
"It's not the bow, it's the Indian"
Posts: 4,534
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Post by ShadowsDad on Oct 8, 2017 13:52:47 GMT -6
Hand stropping is another way to get the SS blades "good" or so I've heard. I've never tried it.
Check to make sure the blade is behind the stops too. If the blade is over the stops it will make for a very aggressive shave and could be causing the problems.
I shave with a stiff wrist, just no pressure pushing the skin in. I also don't use the head flat against my face but assuming a down stroke I drop the handle a hair. Maybe to look at my razors one sees no soap residue possibly 5-7mm near the blade edge, the rest of the head has residue.
You might want to put a "wanted" advertisement up in the for sale section. I'd be very surprised if someone doesn't have a spare mild razor that they could part with. I'd send you one if I had a spare, but I already gave all of them away years ago.
For what it's worth, the OCMM is not the easiest razor to use. It's considered to be quite aggressive. You might try the 1912 and see if it's milder. I think it will be. You have nothing to lose and if it's worse you can always go back the the OCMM before finishing the shave.
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Z-2
Shave Master
Posts: 136
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Post by Z-2 on Oct 14, 2017 0:31:52 GMT -6
Today I`ve got my 4th shave with this GEM PTFE stainless blade. I watched some guys on youtube to do hand stropping, so I did it too. I do not know if there are any reason, but the shave was very smooth. I hold the razor`s head almost against my face, or lift about 5 degrees. No more. No cuts and weepers with my MMOC Thanks friends for the help ! Cheers !
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Post by wchnu on Oct 14, 2017 0:38:18 GMT -6
Today I`ve got my 4th shave with this GEM PTFE stainless blade. I watched some guys on youtube to do hand stropping, so I did it too. I do not know if there are any reason, but the shave was very smooth. I hold the razor`s head almost against my face, or lift about 5 degrees. No more. No cuts and weepers with my MMOC Thanks friends for the help ! Cheers ! AWESOME!!! Sounds like it is all coming together. Just needed some fine tuning. I have know folks that swore by hand stropping. I never saw the need to. But if it works for you have at it. I hope the carbon steel blades arrive soonest!!
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RobinK
Lather Catcher
Posts: 505
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Post by RobinK on Oct 14, 2017 3:59:01 GMT -6
Looks like I'm a bit late to the party, but allow me two remarks: - Irritations are typically a sign of shaving against the grain too soon. This tool is excellent for mapping your beard.
- "Thick whiskers" aren't. Not really. Proper preparation prevents poor performance, and beard preparation is one of the most under-used tools in anyone's shaving arsenal, until it isn't.
Let me elaborate on the second issue. The cutting resistance of an untreated whisker is the same as that of copper wire of the same diameter. Properly treated whiskers, however, are far easier to cut. Which is where good soaps come into play. I know that some (typically self proclaimed) experts wax lyrical about "cushion", and "glide" and whatnot. However, the only feature that really matters is a soap's ability to soften whiskers. Ideally lathered on your face with a finely tipped brush in order to drive the suds into the follicles.
Things should be easier if you go down the route described above.
Good luck, Robin
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RocketMan
Gem Star
RazorAddict
Welcome To The Sharp Side!
Posts: 4,167
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Post by RocketMan on Oct 15, 2017 23:40:53 GMT -6
Looks like I'm a bit late to the party, but allow me two remarks: - Irritations are typically a sign of shaving against the grain too soon. This tool is excellent for mapping your beard.
- "Thick whiskers" aren't. Not really. Proper preparation prevents poor performance, and beard preparation is one of the most under-used tools in anyone's shaving arsenal, until it isn't.
Let me elaborate on the second issue. The cutting resistance of an untreated whisker is the same as that of copper wire of the same diameter. Properly treated whiskers, however, are far easier to cut. Which is where good soaps come into play. I know that some (typically self proclaimed) experts wax lyrical about "cushion", and "glide" and whatnot. However, the only feature that really matters is a soap's ability to soften whiskers. Ideally lathered on your face with a finely tipped brush in order to drive the suds into the follicles.
Things should be easier if you go down the route described above.
Good luck, Robin
I want to disagree - just a little Robin. I agree that soap is argued to soften the hair in some way, yet there is some question regarding the permeability and absorption ability of a hair. Some claim it is to wash the oil coating off the hair that helps. Others, that the hair plumps up or swells, and then cuts better. There is nothing I have truly seen that suggests what really is going on. On the other hand, soaps with poor cushion and glide, and particularly those that breakdown and dry quickly, can make a shave a terrible experience. I feel those elements are indeed important. Have you tried using just hand soap or hair shampoo for a shave? I have at times, and the shaves are always unsatisfactory despite good prep and soaping of the stubble. If it was primarily the prep that softened the whiskers, then why is lather still critical for a proper second, third pass?
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Post by wchnu on Oct 15, 2017 23:51:32 GMT -6
Looks like I'm a bit late to the party, but allow me two remarks: - Irritations are typically a sign of shaving against the grain too soon. This tool is excellent for mapping your beard.
- "Thick whiskers" aren't. Not really. Proper preparation prevents poor performance, and beard preparation is one of the most under-used tools in anyone's shaving arsenal, until it isn't.
Let me elaborate on the second issue. The cutting resistance of an untreated whisker is the same as that of copper wire of the same diameter. Properly treated whiskers, however, are far easier to cut. Which is where good soaps come into play. I know that some (typically self proclaimed) experts wax lyrical about "cushion", and "glide" and whatnot. However, the only feature that really matters is a soap's ability to soften whiskers. Ideally lathered on your face with a finely tipped brush in order to drive the suds into the follicles.
Things should be easier if you go down the route described above.
Good luck, Robin
I want to disagree - just a little Robin. I agree that soap is argued to soften the hair in some way, yet there is some question regarding the permeability and absorption ability of a hair. Some claim it is to wash the oil coating off the hair that helps. Others, that the hair plumps up or swells, and then cuts better. There is nothing I have truly seen that suggests what really is going on. On the other hand, soaps with poor cushion and glide, and particularly those that breakdown and dry quickly, can make a shave a terrible experience. I feel those elements are indeed important. Have you tried using just hand soap or hair shampoo for a shave? I have at times, and the shaves are always unsatisfactory despite good prep and soaping of the stubble. If it was primarily the prep that softened the whiskers, then why is lather still critical for a proper second, third pass? I use to be on the prep train as well. Now adays not so much. Time for a prep thread!!!
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