ShadowsDad
Gem Star
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"It's not the bow, it's the Indian"
Posts: 4,534
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Post by ShadowsDad on Apr 28, 2012 15:21:42 GMT -6
Is it possible to successfully disassemble and reassemble a MicroMatic so that it works again? (I absolutely can get it apart with enough force)
I have a bunch of MMs that could use refurbishing. My most gorgeous gold plated one is one of those. I can't figure out if there's a way to take them apart and (successfully) reassemble them so that they work again.
I know someone here knows if it's possible or if I should just forget it.
Thanks, Gents!
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SharpSpine
Master Shaver
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Post by SharpSpine on Apr 28, 2012 16:29:08 GMT -6
I've been wondering the same thing as I'd like to try replating one of mine.
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Post by wchnu on Apr 28, 2012 17:10:03 GMT -6
Wil not say itcant be done. However i have never seen it done
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Possum
Master Shaver
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Post by Possum on Apr 28, 2012 19:44:26 GMT -6
Best way to diassemble a Micro"Junko"matic is to smack it with a big ol' sledge hammer. Put it out of is miserable misery! No worry about putting it back together and rid the world of one more piece of . . .
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Post by johna2231 on Apr 29, 2012 10:05:22 GMT -6
LMAO!!!! smile. There's Bryce! Karma for the great morning laugh.
John
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themba
SE Super Freak
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Post by themba on Apr 29, 2012 12:01:56 GMT -6
I have taken apart several old Micromatics. The problem is that they were not designed to be easily taken apart. It is a royal pain to get all of the pieces back together, especially those that make up to top head plate. Also, when taking apart the handle, some of the internal components may be permanently damaged. These razor were built to last forever and not fall apart easily, so is easy to understand why this is the case.
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ShadowsDad
Gem Star
None boring shaver!!
"It's not the bow, it's the Indian"
Posts: 4,534
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Post by ShadowsDad on Apr 30, 2012 22:29:31 GMT -6
Gents, It's a miracle!
When I worked in industry we would joke that if we just threatened a piece of machinery with a certain person working on it, that was threat enough for it to begin working again. It actually happened a few times where the machinery would begin working again.
So the reason I asked about MM disassembly is because I have a pretty nice gold plated, but user grade OCMM that would sometimes work. That is the TTO would sometimes decide to work and other times it couldn't be bothered. I put it in my razor boneyard.
Tonight I was going through the razors that aren't currently in the rotation and I happened to pick up the boneyard OCMM and darned if it doesn't work every time now. It's a miracle!
Needless to say, it's not in the boneyard anymore.
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blobby
SE Super Freak
Posts: 83
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Post by blobby on May 1, 2012 2:58:19 GMT -6
Don't say that. Now Possum will stop giving us his maniacal rants just in case it cures and saves another MM. My appreciation for these razors has gone up even more after recently discovering how nifty they're put together.
I know some frown on the idea but I put a bit of olive oil down the centre occassionally.
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Post by wchnu on May 1, 2012 7:15:43 GMT -6
I have one that the top will sometimes open sometimes not. But seeing as I have 6 or 7 more its no worries.
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RocketMan
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Post by RocketMan on May 1, 2012 9:56:32 GMT -6
I find too that there are some mysteries that attend our simple machines that just don't explain well.
Perhaps the soakings you gave it caused a delayed demucking??
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RocketMan
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Post by RocketMan on May 1, 2012 9:59:19 GMT -6
I know some frown on the idea but I put a bit of olive oil down the centre occassionally. Hopefully it is processed olive oil and not extra virgin. The unprocessed oils thicken up and get pretty sticky. It might work like glue after a bit. The processed oil though should stay pretty good. A thinner oil like grapeseed stays nice and fluid. I have never tried yet, but I have thought about warming up some vaseline in the microwave and pouring it into an MM handle body. It might make a mess, but after cleaning the shaft the razor should be well lubed with petrolatum.
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ShadowsDad
Gem Star
None boring shaver!!
"It's not the bow, it's the Indian"
Posts: 4,534
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Post by ShadowsDad on May 1, 2012 21:17:47 GMT -6
Perhaps the soakings you gave it caused a delayed demucking?? That's all I can figure happened to it. I wish the handle was hollow and open at both ends so that I could soak it again and blow air through it to get whatever's in it out. Or maybe "water pic" it.
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RocketMan
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Post by RocketMan on May 1, 2012 22:51:03 GMT -6
Perhaps the soakings you gave it caused a delayed demucking?? That's all I can figure happened to it. I wish the handle was hollow and open at both ends so that I could soak it again and blow air through it to get whatever's in it out. Or maybe "water pic" it. Good old fashioned gasoline dood - t'aint no better than a gawsh dern old lawn mower part now tis it?
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blobby
SE Super Freak
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Post by blobby on May 1, 2012 23:55:44 GMT -6
Hopefully it is processed olive oil and not extra virgin. The unprocessed oils thicken up and get pretty sticky. It might work like glue after a bit. The processed oil though should stay pretty good. A thinner oil like grapeseed stays nice and fluid. Virgin I'm afraid. But with regular use I'm sure it won't have the chance to get gunky as it seems to wash out after a while and with re-oiling any residual gunk will loosen up and redissolve (I'm assuming). I just don't like the idea of petroleum products as most tend to stink. Might try some peanut oil next time.
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ShadowsDad
Gem Star
None boring shaver!!
"It's not the bow, it's the Indian"
Posts: 4,534
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Post by ShadowsDad on May 2, 2012 0:46:34 GMT -6
Blobby,
Mineral oil, at least to my nose, has no smell. But I use Skin So Soft which is a MO base and smells like a French Lady of the Night. OK, so there's another word for that, but I didn't use it. Too, as already written grapeseed oil is viscous and has no disagreeable odor that my nose detects.
It's your razor, but I'd ditch the OO with a solvent to be rid of it, and replace it with something else. I doubt you'll hurt a MM with a solvent even as strong as acetone or toluene since metal isn't affected by any solvent that I know of. But once the OO turns to varnish you'll need to remove it with something at least as strong as acetone or toluene and a long soak, and frankly toluene is the pits and acetone is just slightly better- don't breathe it. Both will evaporate rapidly and leave no residue. Acetone can be obtained at a good paint store. Or you could go to an auto parts store or auto department and get a carburator cleaner (read the label), you want a solvent based cleaner. It too will evaporate with no residue. Just give it time or warmth to speed the evaporation.
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