kyle3r
Shave Master
Posts: 138
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Post by kyle3r on Mar 30, 2020 21:10:58 GMT -6
I have been experimenting with cutting down feather artist club pro blades for injectors. I've gotta say I've been getting a smooth shave so far. I use mini bolt cutters and cut them down just a bit shorter than an injector blade. That way you don't have to worry about a jagged edge overhanging. Once cut down you just push the keeper down in the injector magazine and slide the feather blades in. Then you can easily inject them.
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Post by wchnu on Apr 4, 2020 19:11:44 GMT -6
Sounds like a lot of trouble to fix a non problem. Just my thoughts. Then again I think the same about moving the B-20 (I could be wrong on that number) blades into an injector magazine to use. All the modern made Injector blades seem to work good and not too hard to get.
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Post by jmudrick on Apr 19, 2020 20:22:38 GMT -6
I did some cutting only for my non injector razors like the Mark Cross and De Haven.
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Post by wchnu on Apr 20, 2020 15:09:18 GMT -6
I did some cutting only for my non injector razors like the Mark Cross and De Haven. You rebel you!!
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Post by gaw9576 on Apr 30, 2020 8:18:39 GMT -6
Flintstone I wonder if cutting a longer blade like the Feather pro would be a good option for the Enders that are to tight. It might be easier than grinding the edges of the Chicks and B20s. You would still want to clean up the one cut corner for the Enders though. I tried cutting a Feather Pro guard just to see if it would work. That was a no go with the tin snips I have. The guards separated from the blade and were all mangled.
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Post by jmudrick on Apr 30, 2020 8:26:56 GMT -6
Flintstone I wonder if cutting a longer blade like the Feather pro would be a good option for the Enders that are to tight. It might be easier than grinding the edges of the Chicks and B20s. You would still want to clean up the one cut corner for the Enders though. I tried cutting a Feather Pro guard just to see if it would work. That was a no go with the tin snips I have. The guards separated from the blade and were all mangled. I can't get a precise enough cut with my snips either.
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Flintstone
Lather Catcher
Scraper Blade Shaver...
Posts: 908
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Post by Flintstone on Apr 30, 2020 13:23:42 GMT -6
Flintstone I wonder if cutting a longer blade like the Feather pro would be a good option for the Enders that are to tight. It might be easier than grinding the edges of the Chicks and B20s. You would still want to clean up the one cut corner for the Enders though. I tried cutting a Feather Pro guard just to see if it would work. That was a no go with the tin snips I have. The guards separated from the blade and were all mangled. I have to say it was very easy taking a dremel with a grinding tip to the ends of the Schick and Proline blades. And it is soooo much easier to load a trimmed blade into the Enders. Here's a before-and-after of the blade end, and a picture of the dremel accessory I used. I sandwiched the blade between two magnets and put it into a small vintage bench vise (Littlestown -- I can't remember the model number) and some Bessey soft jaws. The shortened blades and the adapter slide right into the razor without all of the fiddling and forcing which has caused me to break several "ears" off the blade adapters. Personally, I don't love cutting metal -- I've done it for my Eagle LC, and the Aviator snips I have make it a pretty crude cut. I'm sure if I had the right tools I could/would play more, but I'm a pretty simple guy when it comes to this stuff, and the dremel and my little vise worked wonders. Before After
Dremel tool used
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