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Post by jmudrick on Jun 18, 2018 10:36:25 GMT -6
The difference between cap span and exposure is a rather important distinction and not one of semantics. There is no reasonable explanation for a small difference in cap span making a profound difference in a Gem/Ever Ready or other rigid blade razor. If you've got one feel free to offer one up. I'm not trying to be difficult but rather focus the discussion on what's real vs imagined. arguing semantics A phrase commonly used as a rebuttal in arguments, with two common meanings: 1) The person using the phrase has been subjected to a statement or argument that they don't like, but can't argue against; or 2) The person using the phrase doesn't understand the argument, or objects to or doesn't understand the use of polysyllabic words. Semantics. All I know is it doesn’t shave the same because it isn’t the same.
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Post by wchnu on Jun 18, 2018 20:48:15 GMT -6
Has anyone ever measured blade gap on the different SEs? I have seen it on unmentionables but not the good stuff
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Post by twhite on Jun 18, 2018 21:33:32 GMT -6
Here is my take on all of this hooey.
1. Blades need to be supported. The closer to the end and making full contact. Once a blade is stiff as reasonably attainable, you can move on to the geometry.
You basically have 3 main things to consider.
1. Blade exposure. This is how much the edge of the blade sticks out past the theoretical tangent points of the cap and the guard.
2. Blade gap. The distance between the Blade and the guard.
3. Blade angle. The angle at which the blade touches your face.
There is infinite variations of these 3 combinations. Again I must stress that this is only my take on it.
To me the first objective after having a well supported blade is Blade angle. Finding the best angle for a starting point. You do not want too shallow of an angle. This causes a few problems. First the blade will tend to pull. I think this is caused by both sides of the blade making too much contact with the hair. Also a very shallow angle will cause the edge of the blade to deform.
Too steep of an angle you are now trying pull the hair very uncomfortable.
Next is Blade exposure. The more you have the more efficient the shave can be. With more exposure you require less pressure. Remember pressure deforms your skin causing an exaggerated angle on the hair.
Too much exposure will increase the chances of a cut.
The less exposure requires a greater care in keeping the angle. Remember pressure is not needed to cut hairs.
Too much pressure will cause cuts with a low exposure razor just as easily as a larger exposure.
Blade gap is really just the exhaust pipe for your lather and cut hairs. The more gap the less likely you will get it clogged up. If it is clogged you will not be able to have the blade make proper contact.
I draw my conclusions from years of cutting metal and seeing how my cutters perform doing the given tasks.
I would love to hear others opinions on this. As mine is all observational reasoning.
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Post by jmudrick on Jun 18, 2018 23:22:41 GMT -6
Makes sense to me buddy. Here is my take on all of this hooey. 1. Blades need to be supported. The closer to the end and making full contact. Once a blade is stiff as reasonably attainable, you can move on to the geometry. You basically have 3 main things to consider. 1. Blade exposure. This is how much the edge of the blade sticks out past the theoretical tangent points of the cap and the guard. 2. Blade gap. The distance between the Blade and the guard. 3. Blade angle. The angle at which the blade touches your face. There is infinite variations of these 3 combinations. Again I must stress that this is only my take on it. To me the first objective after having a well supported blade is Blade angle. Finding the best angle for a starting point. You do not want too shallow of an angle. This causes a few problems. First the blade will tend to pull. I think this is caused by both sides of the blade making too much contact with the hair. Also a very shallow angle will cause the edge of the blade to deform. Too steep of an angle you are now trying pull the hair very uncomfortable. Next is Blade exposure. The more you have the more efficient the shave can be. With more exposure you require less pressure. Remember pressure deforms your skin causing an exaggerated angle on the hair. Too much exposure will increase the chances of a cut. The less exposure requires a greater care in keeping the angle. Remember pressure is not needed to cut hairs. Too much pressure will cause cuts with a low exposure razor just as easily as a larger exposure. Blade gap is really just the exhaust pipe for your lather and cut hairs. The more gap the less likely you will get it clogged up. If it is clogged you will not be able to have the blade make proper contact. I draw my conclusions from years of cutting metal and seeing how my cutters perform doing the given tasks. I would love to hear others opinions on this. As mine is all observational reasoning.
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Post by jmudrick on Jun 18, 2018 23:41:48 GMT -6
Makes sense to me buddy. Here is my take on all of this hooey. 1. Blades need to be supported. The closer to the end and making full contact. Once a blade is stiff as reasonably attainable, you can move on to the geometry. You basically have 3 main things to consider. 1. Blade exposure. This is how much the edge of the blade sticks out past the theoretical tangent points of the cap and the guard. 2. Blade gap. The distance between the Blade and the guard. 3. Blade angle. The angle at which the blade touches your face. There is infinite variations of these 3 combinations. Again I must stress that this is only my take on it. To me the first objective after having a well supported blade is Blade angle. Finding the best angle for a starting point. You do not want too shallow of an angle. This causes a few problems. First the blade will tend to pull. I think this is caused by both sides of the blade making too much contact with the hair. Also a very shallow angle will cause the edge of the blade to deform. Too steep of an angle you are now trying pull the hair very uncomfortable. Next is Blade exposure. The more you have the more efficient the shave can be. With more exposure you require less pressure. Remember pressure deforms your skin causing an exaggerated angle on the hair. Too much exposure will increase the chances of a cut. The less exposure requires a greater care in keeping the angle. Remember pressure is not needed to cut hairs. Too much pressure will cause cuts with a low exposure razor just as easily as a larger exposure. Blade gap is really just the exhaust pipe for your lather and cut hairs. The more gap the less likely you will get it clogged up. If it is clogged you will not be able to have the blade make proper contact. I draw my conclusions from years of cutting metal and seeing how my cutters perform doing the given tasks. I would love to hear others opinions on this. As mine is all observational reasoning. Thinking about this in the context of the cap discussion, to the extent the cap matters it may be in simply guiding the shaving angle. I don't see upward blade flex as an issue as it would be in a modern unmentionable. (fuzzy was here)
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Post by wchnu on Jun 18, 2018 23:49:38 GMT -6
Thinking about this in the context of the cap discussion, to the extent the cap matters it may be in simply guiding the shaving angle. I don't see upward blade flex as an issue as it would be in a modern unmentionable. (fuzzy was here) I agree with that. The thicker SE blade shoud not flex.
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TobyC
Gem Star
Old stick in the mud.
Posts: 2,400
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Post by TobyC on Jun 19, 2018 6:07:11 GMT -6
Has anyone ever measured blade gap on the different SEs? I have seen it on unmentionables but not the good stuff I've seen a few examples over at rat~n~sickle, but there's a lot of variation, even the basic 1912 was in constant evolution, being made under different names, in different factories, in different countries, if you have two 1912's, they are likely to be different.
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Post by wchnu on Jun 19, 2018 18:33:35 GMT -6
Has anyone ever measured blade gap on the different SEs? I have seen it on unmentionables but not the good stuff I've seen a few examples over at rat~n~sickle, but there's a lot of variation, even the basic 1912 was in constant evolution, being made under different names, in different factories, in different countries, if you have two 1912's, they are likely to be different. I have found this to be very true. It's a great reason to keep buying and trying them....not that most of us need a reason.
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Post by nickfanzo on Jul 15, 2018 19:32:58 GMT -6
I love all my 1912 razors. I just ordered a damaskeene so I will chime in when I shave with it. I can't see the 1912 being any better than it already is!
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Post by wchnu on Jul 16, 2018 18:48:44 GMT -6
I love all my 1912 razors. I just ordered a damaskeene so I will chime in when I shave with it. I can't see the 1912 being any better than it already is! A lot of us are fans of the Damaskeene. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
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Post by twhite on Jul 16, 2018 19:14:46 GMT -6
I love all my 1912 razors. I just ordered a damaskeene so I will chime in when I shave with it. I can't see the 1912 being any better than it already is! A lot of us are fans of the Damaskeene. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts. i May have a Dammy problem. I have 9 of them. I have to buy them whenever I am out antiquing.
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Post by wchnu on Jul 16, 2018 23:12:46 GMT -6
A lot of us are fans of the Damaskeene. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts. i May have a Dammy problem. I have 9 of them. I have to buy them whenever I am out antiquing. So the problem is you do not have 10?
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Post by birdlives on Jul 17, 2018 1:26:38 GMT -6
I think he needs a Baker's Dozen....Then he will not need any more....Right?
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Post by birdlives on Jul 17, 2018 1:28:38 GMT -6
Here is my take on all of this hooey. 1. Blades need to be supported. The closer to the end and making full contact. Once a blade is stiff as reasonably attainable, you can move on to the geometry. You basically have 3 main things to consider. 1. Blade exposure. This is how much the edge of the blade sticks out past the theoretical tangent points of the cap and the guard. 2. Blade gap. The distance between the Blade and the guard. 3. Blade angle. The angle at which the blade touches your face. There is infinite variations of these 3 combinations. Again I must stress that this is only my take on it. To me the first objective after having a well supported blade is Blade angle. Finding the best angle for a starting point. You do not want too shallow of an angle. This causes a few problems. First the blade will tend to pull. I think this is caused by both sides of the blade making too much contact with the hair. Also a very shallow angle will cause the edge of the blade to deform. Too steep of an angle you are now trying pull the hair very uncomfortable. Next is Blade exposure. The more you have the more efficient the shave can be. With more exposure you require less pressure. Remember pressure deforms your skin causing an exaggerated angle on the hair. Too much exposure will increase the chances of a cut. The less exposure requires a greater care in keeping the angle. Remember pressure is not needed to cut hairs. Too much pressure will cause cuts with a low exposure razor just as easily as a larger exposure. Blade gap is really just the exhaust pipe for your lather and cut hairs. The more gap the less likely you will get it clogged up. If it is clogged you will not be able to have the blade make proper contact. I draw my conclusions from years of cutting metal and seeing how my cutters perform doing the given tasks. I would love to hear others opinions on this. As mine is all observational reasoning. I believe your treatise is right on the money! This needs to be documented in a way that we can find it easily in the future.
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Post by nickfanzo on Jul 22, 2018 7:08:42 GMT -6
Shaved with my new damaskeene this morning. Two passes and a water only touch up.
Damn nice shave but all my 1912s shave perfectly.I do like the rounded top .
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